Today we celebrated the 69th Anniversary of the D-Day Allied Landing Invasion of Normandy. What a full and wonderful experience. As always, we were accompanied by our fabulous guide who took us to Ste. Mere Eglise, Utah Beach, Omaha Beach, the American Cemetery, and Pte. du Hoc. My guide is also a dear friend whose Dad was in the French Resistance, was captured in Caen, and who had the unfortunate misfortune (understatement to be sure!) to be sent to Dachau Prison Camp for the remainder of the war. (He survived the war, but not without great pain!)
To possibly describe the emotions and experience during our D-D day tour today would be impossible on many levels, but I must share our final encounter that rather capsulizes the dramatic and powerful feelings that permeated the day.
We were wrapping up our visit to Pointe du Hoc and had occasion to meet up with a Veteran. We were thanking him for his service to our country --- something that goes on throughout a day in Normandy when you have a chance meeting with an individual who’s charm, attire, medals, and seasoned demeanor indicate that he is likely a Veteran of WWII. Birney Havey was such a man. He is 92 and a handsome individual with a radiance and persona that made us smile with enthusiasm and we appreciated the privilege of meeting him.
Our guide thanked him profusely for his service to our country and explained that his father had been in the French Resistance and sadly had been sent to Dachau. At that point, Mr. Havey said that he was part of the 42nd Infantry Division that had liberated Dachau. The two men hugged with this realization – our guide realizing that this American Veteran had been a part of the freeing of his father from the tyranny of the prison camp after several years of enslavement and the Veteran realizing that he’d made a connection with someone whose dad had been freed because of the work of his fellow soldiers so many years ago. The connection was amazing. The experience was precious, tender, and poignant.
It has been 69 years since the D-Day invasion and the total Normandy experience must be kept alive for future generations to understand and hopefully appreciate the sacrifice that so many gave so that we might be able to know the freedom that we do.
Just back from France and the highlight was my four days in Normandy. Yes, I’ve been to Normandy many times before, but this time it was with fellow travelers who hadn’t been there before. To see sites that I’d seen before through these fresh eyes was like seeing Normandy again for the first time. It was magical in every way.
Normandy is so much more than Sherman tanks and hedge rows. While, bien sûr, the history of D-Day is everywhere throughout the region, there’s a wealth of beauty, charm, and serenity permeating every mile one traverses in Normandy!
No one should visit France without visiting Normandy. If you only can spare a day, then take one of our Normandy day tours. However, do allow yourself longer, if possible!
Without writing a journal of my trip, I want to share some important gems that deserve your time. You’ll not be disappointed:
- Caen: What a surprise for me. I had visited here before, but not enjoyed the center of the town and a walking tour revealed so many special spots. It’s truly a step into history and I found a thriving, dynamic city with a wealth of heritage and culture.
- Caen Memorial: This is one of the most visited museums in Europe covering 20th century history. Truly, it’s a museum of peace. It’s a sensory experience to visit here and deserves a full day.
- Arromanches: D-day Museum is situated on Gold Beach where the British troops landed on D-Day.
- Bayeux: This is my personal “home away from home” and my town of choice in France! It is pristine, friendly, historic, picturesque, and a Unesco World Heritage Site. (It also was the first French town liberated by the Brits after being occupied by the Germans!)
- Bayeux Tapestry: Recounting the events of the Norman Conquest “1066 and all that!” It is 224 feet of history! An amazing tapestry of images and pictures telling the story of the events of 1064-1066 and created hundreds of years ago! Really!
- Juno Beach: One of the five sectors important on D-Day. Thank you, Canada for your outstanding work on this beach in June of 1944.
- Pointe du Hoc: Colonel Rudder’s Rangers scaled these impossible cliffs hoping to capture guns in the strategic location between Utah and Omaha Beaches.
- Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery: The resting place of 9,387 American military (most of whom gave their lives in the Battle of Normandy) is situated above Omaha Beach.
Utah Beach and Utah Beach Landing Museum: This was the most western of the Allied Landing beaches during the Allied Invasion. The museum has been renovated and includes many treasures, including a B26 named the “Dinah Might”, flown by Major David H. Dewhurst, Jr., a true war hero of WWII, having flown 85 war missions over European enemy territory.- Mont-Ormel Memorial Museum: The verdant hills and medieval castles of today cannot possibly tell the story of the battle for the Falaise Pocket. However, this last battle in the Battle of Normandy included British, American, Canadian, Polish, and French troops and cost many lives. The area is serene and beautiful, but the museum well depicts what horror ensued during the battle.
- Rouen: This city is the capital of Upper Normandy and is the historical capital of the region. Yes, Joan of Arc burned at the stake here, but more than that, this town has the most amazing architecture of half-timbered buildings. The Rouen Cathedral is breath-taking (Monet painted it many times as you’ll see in the Musée d’Orsay!) and its high Gothic style is immense! One feels the history from the Hundred Years War while seeing the damage done during WWII bombing when 45% of the city was destroyed. However, today it is a vibrant city and has a core of charm, beauty, history, art, and architecture.
- The Normandy people: I cannot properly list my gems of Normandy without including the people. It probably should have been named first, but you’ll discover this when you are there. They are a proud people. They are welcoming of us from across the water and have not forgotten (nor will they ever!) what we accomplished in the name of peace in 1944. The people of Normandy are friendly and eager to share their towns, their history, their culture, their food (oh my…don’t get me started on Camembert, Pont-l’Évêque, Livarot, and Neufchâtel, the delectable cheeses of Normandy!), their zest for life, and their friendship. You will leave Normandy with friends. Isn’t that the bonus of travel?
Okay, so you need to spend a month in Normandy! It’s worth every moment. I’m counting the days until my return for the 69th anniversary of D-day…just a short time from now!
Sainte Mere Eglise is a small village located on the Cotentin Peninsula of France. Saint Mere Eglise was the first village in France to be liberated on D-Day. It was liberated by elements of the 82nd Airborne who parachuted in behind German lines early D-Day morning to support the amphibious landing of the 4th Infantry Division at nearby Utah Beach.
In the center of the village square of Sainte Mere Eglise is the Normand church made famous by Private John Steele of the 82nd Airborne. Private Steele landed on the roof of the church and his parachute covered the church steeple. Steele hung from his parachute near the belfry of the church. He was deaf for weeks after D-Day because of the ringing of the church bell that was calling people to help extinguish a house fire in the village square of Sainte Mere Eglise.
Sainte Mere Eglise was also involved in the first significant German counter attack on D-Day. It involved the German 6th Parachute Regiment against elements of the U.S. 82nd Airborne. By the end of day on D-Day, Sainte Mere Eglise was secured by American forces.Today, visitors to Sainte Mere Eglise will find a monument that honors the 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions that landed in the area on D-Day. On the church in the village square hangs an effigy of John Steele with a parachute. The church that dates from the 11th Century also has stained glass windows that honor the memory of the U.S. paratroopers that lost their lives on D-Day. The Airborne Museum of Sainte Mere Eglise is also worth visiting.
A Paris Travel offers private Normandy tours that can include Sainte Mere Eglise.
Source: Ambrose, Stephen E. D-Day June 6, 1994: The Climatic Battle of World War II. New York, NY: Simon & Schuster. 1994
The trial of Joan of Arc began in the city of Rouen on this day in 1431. Rouen is located in Northern France and is in the region of Normandy though some 90 miles from the English Channel.
This folk heroine who was eventually given Roman Catholic sainthood lived only 19 years, but she was able to lead a French army to victories during the Hundred Years' War, so a fairly accomplished young woman. Certainly she paid the ultimate price since she was burned at the stake on May 30, 1431. Today, February 21st was the start of her trial.
During the trial, a most famous response was made by Joan of Arc (Jeanne d'Arc) when she was asked if she knew she was in God's grace. "If I am not, may God put me there; and if I am, may God so keep me." Her imprisonment and trial were anything but "fair"and her burning execution was a tragic event in French history.
Today's Rouen is a very picturesque place with an historic old town and I'm very much looking forward to a visit there next month while in Normandy. So much history...so much amazing discovery is to be found in France.
A great way to tour Rouen is from your cruise ship's arrival in either Rouen, Le Havre, or Honfleur. We often arrange Normandy private tours from cruise ships to visit this historic town and the surrounding region of Normandy. Also, it is a fabulous addition to a private tour to Normandy that includes several nights in the region, since it ties in nicely with visits to Giverny, the D-Day Beaches, and Mont Saint Michel.
The Mont Saint Michel is a place of sheer enchantment! It is as if the most impossible monument was erected in the most remote location. Often called the "Marvel of the Western World", Mont Saint Michel is situated on the border between two regions in France. Both Normandy and Brittany claims that it belongs to them!
The abbey of Mont Saint Michel is unlike any other monastery. The Mount is in the shape of a pyramid, so it was necessary for the medieval builders to wrap the buildings around the granite rock. Amazing as well is that the construction not only was constrained by the topography and geography of the location, but by the requirements of monastic life. The resulting wonder conformed to both!
Dates to be noted regarding Mont Saint Michel:
708: Aubert, Bishop of Avranches had a sanctuary built on Mont-Tobe in honor of the archangel Michel.
10th Century: The mount has become a pilgrimage destination and teh Benedictines settled in the abbey; the village grew below the abbey
14th Century: The construction of the abbey extended to the foot of the rock. It was a stronghold of defence during the Hundred Years War, so today the military architecture with its ramparts and fortifications can be observed. These enabled the resistance of the English attacks during the Hundred Years War.
1793 - 1863: After the French revolution and following the dissolution of the religious community in France, the abbey was used as a prison.
1874: Mont Saint Michel became classified as an historic monument in France and major restoration took place.
1979: Mont Saint Michel became listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Source: Mont Saint Michel entrance brochure
Please click on the link to learn about the tours to Mont Saint Michel offered by A Paris Travel.